Wire Sperms:return to Ideas...return to Contents...
See also: Erector Set
Wire Sperms:Use a maleable wire. I like an alloy wire that is part brass, and part aluminum. It has a lighter than brass color, a kinda grayed-gold color. Bend with a pair of needle-nosed pliers to the shape shown here. Creative tail twisting encouraged.
Hang it on the zipper tab on your fly (best place, I think). Wear it everywhere. Make more. Decorate your apt. Give to your friends.
Be careful you don't scratch/jab your cock & balls, or those of others. Sand/grind the end of the wire a bit so its not sharp.
I've been using standard chrome plated metal cock rings for years. Especially on my balls, where I like to hang about 13. Its a nice stretch/weight/dangle. And they make wonderful jingling sounds in sweatpants. But there is a problem.
I have found a less expensive answer than Stainless Rings, which are difficult to find, only made from tube stock, and expensive, or the more expensive and more carefully made (usually heavier) Chrome Plated Rings (Hawk Metals is one brand name). I have found a way to deal with the cheap rings effectively.
Grind off the weld bump with a handheld Dremmel-type tool (necessary to get inside the ring) to flush with the surrounding surface. Then buy emery paper at the hardware store (the black kind) 320 grit works well. Sand down the grinding, and any flaked areas. the sanded finish will have a satiny feel. You will spend about 30 minutes per ring to do an effective job. About 3 per piece of emery paper (cut into strips for ease of handling). Wash the rings well with dish detergent to get all the grit and loose metal off them.
Now the rings will have a wonderful smooth, silky and fluid feel when you wear them. The smoothed metal is much friendlier to the skin, even though base metal will be exposed. The trick is to keep the finish fresh, and not allow the naturally occuring oxidizing of the surface to get very old. There is some continued maintenance necessary: From this point you can freshen the finishing with steel wool pads, like SOS pads. Or the copper cleaning pads. They last longer since they don't rust. Again, wash well when done. Idea is to wash your cock rings after wear. This will reduce the oxidizing somewhat, since skin oils will be removed from the cock rings. If you want to be very protective of them, rub avaseline onto them after cleaning. The rings will get smoother each time you do the steel wool thing.
Sanded Chrome Rings are such a significant joy in use, that I highly recommend that you do this/use them, even if you have never experienced the cuts/abrasions I describe above. They move wonderfully on your skin. They feel great. Especially when you use multiples. I thought for a moment about doing this and selling Sanded Cock Rings as a cottage product. I'm certain they'd get a fine rep., and there'd be a demand. But when I sat down to figure material and time cost, the price would scare customers. Cost of unsanded ring: $2; emery paper $.65; grinding wheel for tool (they wear out): $2.60; labor: $25 /hr. (no I'm not cheap). I doubt I'd sell many at $18 each. And a retailer would want 100% (minimum) markup. So do it yourself, guys. You WILL like the result.
A young guy in the Hole told me about the great time he was having jacking off with gloves. He says a well lubed leather glove feels as good as a hot mouth. Hot mouths being among my favorite plugging places, I was sold. Since then, I've bought many, of all kinds. Mostly work gloves. Fabric, Leather, Rubber, Latex, etc. Best place to buy is one of the discount building supply superstores. Best prices, and best selection. Keep one for use with lubes (see Lube List on Ideas Page) and one for dry. Yeah, you'll have to learn to jack off with the other hand. Or give one to a friend.
PS: I'm left handed.
Among the most frequently asked questions I hear is: "Don't those 13 rings on your balls hurt?" and "How does that heavy ring stay on your dickhead?...What kinda piercing is that?"
I've been hanging rings on my balls for about 2 decades. I started with leather stretchers/separators. But I found I liked a bit of weight, too. Made the dangle, and the pendulous feel much nicer. It hit me one day, that cock rings could do both. I started with 5, and progressively added rings. It took me about 3 years to get up to 13 rings. I could have done it quicker, but I stayed at 9 rings for quite a while. I have had as many as 18 on my balls, but that takes a special effort and a warm day.
The next thing to say is that they have to be sized right. Large enough to get 'em on, and small enough to stay on. I use regular chrome plated rings that are 1.5" inside diameter (see sanded cock rings, above for valuable hints). I have some other rings for my balls. Heavier "chrome donut", and also several stainless bands. These wider rings need to be slightly bigger. I find 1.675" is right for me. But my favorite is the small, narrow and round cock rings, as shown in the pix at left. I like these because they articulate so well. They are a bit hard to get on, but I have found some helpful tricks:
Now on to the Cockhead Ring:
The one in the pix above is a heavy chrome donut. It is retained by a circular barbell that fits perfectly behind the head of my dick. You can't see it in the pix above, because it is hidden partly inside the heavy ring. The one I use is 2 gague, 7/8" inside diameter. The trick is the fit. It must stay on when you are soft, and fit reasonably when you are hard. This is a very critical fit. 1/32" will make a difference.
I suggest that you go to a hardware store, and buy a number of flat washers of various sizes between, say 1/2" and 1.25" (depending on the size of your dick). Wash any residual oil off (used to reduce rust), and try some on. Put it against your dickhead. Pinch your dickhead on each side of your piss slit, and slip it on. Start with the biggest one you bought, to get the idea of putting it on.
When you get a reasonable fit, wear it for a while. Jack off with it on. When you have the right size identified, you are ready to go for the circ. barbell. These are a bit expensive. Depending on the gague, and where you buy, price will be somewhere between $50 and $90. Best place for range of sizes in stock, and low prices I have found in SF is Nomad Body Arts, 1881 Hayes St. My 2 gague, at 7/8" inside diameter, with big ball ends cost $50 there. The Gauntlet on Market St. is way overpriced, and carries a minimum stock. They wanted $85 for the same item. Wherever you buy, this is a pricy item to be making mistakes for size.
I mentioned the ball ends. The circ. barbell, worn as a cockhead coronal ring, positions the ball ends on each side of your frenulum. This is absolutely delightful when jacking off. The ball ends play wonderfully with your frenulum, and transmit the jerk-past action of your hand in a pleasant sensation that has to be experienced to be understood. Warning: do not let anyone deep-throat your cock with this ring on your dick. If it were to come off, the sucking guy would have a serious problem with this ring in his throat. Likewise, I would not suggest fucking with it.
The heavy ring is a wonderful dangle. And (I usually like to let guys discover this on their own) the heavy ring serves as a traditonal cock ring, Just push it down your cock shaft as you get hard.
I like plain all cotton braided rope, about 1/2" diameter. Tough to find. Most rope today is largely or all synthetic, and has a core of non-braided material. Bondage with all cotton rope is most comfortable. Cotton rope is also easily washed, when necessary.
I have 4 industrial rubber suction cups, with eyebolts screwed into them. They are great as a portable bondage apparatus. Just wet 'em, and they stick like glue to any non-porus surface. Note: flat latex paint on plaster walls is porus. Won't work on that. The way to test: if water does not bead off the surface, suction cups will not work.
A hot outfit for a bottom: cotton rope body harness with dangling suction cups.
Playful fun with others, esp. in a group setting. Boys with water guns, and sex on their mind will have their way, and a lot of fun. Fill options: Water, Beer, Piss, Lube (cut with water) depending on your playmates. Excellent at street fairs on hot days. I took 4 to Castro St. Fair this year. And wore white stretchy shorts, with the nozzles stuck in the waistband, so that when they got wet, tourists got an eyeful. I got a Sexwork Job Offer out of it.
Fill a rubber 3/4 full with water (don't overfill). Tie off very snugly with one end of a 6-8" length of dental floss, with a handle-loop on the free end. Put in freezer. Turn every 20 mins. to keep it from freezing too flat. Squish up the ice when it starts to freeze, reshape and put back in freezer. Don't break the rubber. Or you can make a wire rack from a old coathanger to suspend it by the knot so it freezes symmetricly. When it is frozen, hold it for a minute so the rubber loosens from the ice (but leave the rubber on). It feels very nice & squirmy. Use a bit of lube, and keep it moving when you insert. Don't loose it. Keep hold of the handle loop. Keep a towel handy. From my sophmore college days, c.1967.
A Radio Shack toy. On sale in the month of Jan. 1998 for $15, half price. Controls are not very intuitive, but they work. Movement is slow, but fairly well controlled, considering the complexity of joints and motion. Grip is strong enough to hold onto my cockhead and move it. Yay. Thats why I bought it. Rumor has it that an upgrade board will be out soon which will refine movement. Now, if I had two...